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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.Morbi adipiscing gravdio, sit amet suscipit risus ultrices eu.Fusce viverra neque at purus laoreet consequa.Vivamus vulputate posuere nisl quis consequat.

Is there any {hardware} to have the ability to be part of issues collectively however unjoin when wanted?

[https://ibb.co/RPL0nqw](https://ibb.co/RPL0nqw)

I’ve drawn the type of situation I am working with, basically a desk prime and legs, which I would like to have the ability to disassemble when wanted. The {hardware} would ideally be the place the purple items are. Solely factor that involves my thoughts is L brackets and screws however I feel the screws would put on out over time. Additionally one thing that does not harm each surfaces because the desk is used and strikes barely when weight is placed on and brought off could be concept. Thanks!

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Comments ( 26 )

  1. Your brackets look fine. Use screws up into the top. Use through bolts with washers horizontally through the vertical legs.

  2. Threaded inserts, and screw in from the top?

  3. Is this already a built table or are you making it?
    Thick dowels maybe? If you do a good job they’ll pressure fit nicely and they’re invisible when the table is standing.

  4. Shop threaded inserts on Amazon.

  5. Pocket holes. You could set some dowel pins first to ensure alignment and to hold the placement when the screws are added/ removed.

    Mortise and tenon as an alternative to dowels if you’re looking for more structural and then the screws just become the “locks”

  6. I would vote for threaded inserts, something like this:

  7. Not an exact match but take a look at tabletop fasteners. They’re great in situations where you are attaching a tabletop to a frame of some sort with legs. Based on your illustration you might be able to use fasteners on both sides of the leg piece although it might not be stable enough.
    https://images.app.goo.gl/FmhPZkYDeYw6z9W88

  8. Seriously, look up Cam lock screws and Cam lock nuts. The screw goes into the flat surface of one board, and inserts into a hole you drill into the edge of the other board.

    The cam nut goes into another hole you drill into the flat end of the other board, and intersects the hole the cam screw inserts into. The cam screw inserts into the side of the cam nut, and when you turn the cam nut it tapers down, and grips the end of the cam screw.

    This holds the boards together tightly until you turn the cam nut again the other way and it lets go of the cam screw head, then you can pull the boards apart. Just make sure you get your distances right to make the bonds as tight as possible. But this is seriously your best option, because it will be able to be taken apart and put back together over and over again without wearing down any screw holes.

    https://s3files.core77.com/blog/images/2014/10/0camlocknuts-02.jpg

  9. If the legs were T shaped, with a rib extending towards the other end, they’d be stable. Then you could have dowels extending from the tops of the supports, and the top could just fit onto them.

    I have built a table with stable bases and dowels, and the only weakness is if someone sits on the very end and tips the top. The risk of this can be minimized by having as little cantilever as possible.

  10. Hinges with pins. Put them on both sides of the leg.
    Remove one or both pins to either fold or completely remove the legs.

  11. Door hinges work great. Just pull the pins. Set builders do this.

  12. Use bolts with wing nuts to attach at the legs

  13. Yes, but I would worry about any connection like this being not strong enough to prevent racking. A cross-bar between the legs, even right under the top. Would make it much much stronger.

  14. These are really strong and affordable; several options. I think I ordered them through Lee Valley (they have US distribution):

    https://striplox.com/

  15. Yes, use Ultrahand on your Purah Pad

  16. You might also want to look at some of woodgears’s projects if you are still designing the table:

    * [Large Knock Down Table](https://woodgears.ca/table/knockdown.html)
    * [Knock Down Desk](https://woodgears.ca/student-desk/index.html)

  17. Zipties? If you can’t assemble it with zipties then it doesn’t deserve to be assembled.

  18. Traditional would be wedged tenons.

    https://www.woodsmith.com/article/loose-wedge-mortise-tenon-joints-basic-tusk-tenon/

    Edit: so wedged tenons aren’t good for tabletops for obvious reasons.

    This is part of the reason tabletops usually have aprons/skirts connecting the legs. It gives you someplace to attach the tabletop without putting holes through the top using tabletop mounting clamps https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/table-hardware/connectors-and-fasteners/40146-tabletop-mounting-clamps?item=13K0101

  19. I would think you could accomplish that with threaded inserts and angle brackets or figure 8 brackets. That way you could unbolt the table top multiple times without losing thread.

  20. Just Bolts and nuts. Chisel/cut some insets on the top surface of the table for the nut to sit into so its nice and flush. Washers to not damage the lower surface.

  21. others probably said it already – you need wood mounted inserts for bolts.
    You can screw the insert into the wood and even epoxy it in place. It has internal thread that accept for exampe a hex head bolt.

  22. Yes. They’re called “screws”.

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