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Sanding Joint Compound

Hey all,

I’m at the moment doing a board and batten wall in my eating room. So as to take action I needed to take away a bunch of the present chair rail. In consequence, I had some gaps I wanted to fill so I used some 45 minute joint compound and have began the sanding course of. I’m utilizing a 120 grit sanding sponge and I really feel like that is taking longer than I hoped. My massive considerations are that I’m not sanding sufficient to get a flush easy end with the wall and clearly that I’ll be right here for the subsequent 10 years sanding away. Do I simply hold going at it with the sanding sponge or take a look at utilizing an orbital sander to assist with effectivity? From the image I’m curious if I’m utilizing an excessive amount of mud? Any assistance is tremendously appreciated! Thanks

Right here’s a pic of the primary space I’ve sanded:

Comments ( 12 )

  1. Sand with higher grit. Reapply the joint cpd if needed. Then sand with finer grit.

  2. Don’t use a sander. It’s too aggressive and will make even a bigger mess

  3. Technique I recently learned: use a damp sponge instead of sandpaper. (Regular sponge, not sanding sponge.) Better results and no dust.

  4. If you feel like you’re sanding too much, it’s because you are.

    It wasn’t until I graduated from smaller jobs to taping and mudding an entire room that I learned probably the most important thing to know about mudding: less is more.

    Your goal is to apply only as much mud as needed, or less, and let it dry. Then run the sander over it once or twice (literally: one or two strokes) and reapply if needed. That’s it. It is so much easier to build up the mud than it is to “fix it in post”, as you now know. The temptation is to put on enough to sand down to flush, but wow, that is just so much work.

    Also, those sanding blocks are cheap, yeah, and will likely be okay for this job, but in the future, spend the 10 or so bucks on a hand sander and some drywall sand paper. If it’s a large job, make sure you can attach it to a broom handle because being able to sand the entire wall without getting on a ladder is pure bliss.

  5. A: that’s too much mud

    B: You haven’t feathered the edges well

    C: hot mud is **much** harder to sand than premixed all purpose or finishing mud. If you have more than a little patch to do you should buy a bucket of mud and use that.

  6. Everyone is giving you sound advice regarding your mud/sanding. I’d like to throw out a friendly reminder to wear your respirator if you plan on sanding, and best of luck!

  7. To thick of a layer, and not feathered out far enough. As someone else mentioned fast drying compound is tough to sand.

  8. Sanding mesh is what you need. Wear protection!

  9. 45 minute compound gets very hard. The longer working time (i.e. 20 minute- 90 minute) the harder it gets.

    People on here advocating for a wet sponge are headed in the wrong direction. Setting compound is not water soluble and won’t smooth out with a sponge.

    Ideally you should probably use regular joint compound for topical smoothing and repairs. It is very forgiving while you’re working it and it stands easily.

  10. Quick dry mud is much harder to sand than regular mud.

  11. I’m assuming that for a board and bat wall you will be covering the existing wall with Wood. If that is the case, Your wall is ready to go.

  12. I’d take it down with 80 grit and then a skim coat.

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