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Thirties home basis/joist points. No sill plate.

Lengthy story brief. (Nonetheless lengthy) Home was constructed within the 30s. We simply moved in and observed the flooring within the mud/laundry room are sagging decrease than you recognize what….fyi that room is an addition. Through the inspection, we found the beam holding up the joist is not fixed so it’s simply the 2×6 joist holding up the flooring throughout a 12ft span 20”oc. And naturally, the earlier house owner put tile in that room. The pucker issue is excessive each time you stroll throughout it.

I began digging into it and lower the siding off throughout the crawlspace between the addition and the house.

Discovered the rationale why, amongst many, that beam didn’t maintain up. There’s no wooden left on the opposite facet. The rim joist isn’t any extra. The sill plate? Sayonara. The sink had leaked beforehand for a very long time and rotted all of it. Now I need to repair this and the addition beam.

My plan of motion is: 1. Jacking up the three predominant home joists with no sill plate underneath them and sliding a PT 2×6 in from the opposite facet. 2. As a result of the underside of the joist is rotten I’m sistering the tip of these three joists so there’s something to relaxation on the sill. I’ve learn that the sister joist would ideally be the size of the joist so it remainder of the bearing ends. Thats not potential although. So I’m capturing for no less than 3/4th of the size. 3. I will likely be gluing and utilizing structural penny screws to affix the 2. The primary query is ought to I put a publish and footing underneath the tip of the sister joist that isn’t being supported?

As soon as that is again structurally sound i can repair the mud room beam that is not fixed. I will double the 2×6 up and put a publish and footings on every finish with some correct strapping.

Any recommendation can be appreciated. 🍻💸😳

Photos: [](

Comments ( 3 )

  1. What a mess. It’s hard to tell what’s going on in the pictures but overall plan sounds good. 3/4 of the length is plenty, you shouldn’t need a pier, do research on proper nailing schedules for sistering/splicing joists. Also look at joist hangers as better ways to attach them.

    My biggest concern is your floor construction, even when repaired, seems pretty marginal for tile. There are tables that will tell you the deflection of your floor based on joist size, spacing, subfloor material, and whether tile will crack. You may want to do additional reinforcement while you’re down there.

  2. Ideally you sister the full length, with no splits in the middle third. If you do that, you restore bending & shear strength.

    If the middle third of the joist is mostly fine, and only the ends are rotten, then you just have to worry about shear strength. That means you just need to sister a similarly sized joist over the rotten bits and about 24″ further.

    If you don’t fix what caused the rot, then you’ll be doing this again in a couple of years.

    The rotten joists likely settled, causing the walls to slump. Do know that when you jack the joists back up level, the floors and rest of the structure will take a few weeks/months/years adapting to the new normal.

    So you may see what appears to be settlement cracks develop for awhile after doing all this work. Be aware of this when you see “settlement cracks” developing before you go spending a ton of money on more repairs that you don’t need.

  3. I’d be concerned about that duct in there, it looks like it may be wrapped in asbestos. I wouldn’t be doing anything around it until [you test it.] ( You don’t want that shit flying around.

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