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What would I have to do with this vented attic house to drywall it in and make it a part of the residing house? Beforehand a flat 2×4 ceiling

You may see on the left aspect of the image the minimize 2×4 which was the drywalled ceiling beforehand. I eliminated the 2x4s as a result of I would like to exchange them as half of a bigger Reno, however thought I perhaps can simply remove the attic house by some means and convey the drywall to the rafters. I do know one thing must be performed in regards to the temperatures and air move however unsure what. I wish to make it kinda like vaulted ceiling. What would I have to put up on the highest of the roof? I reside in jap Canada, Nova scotia. Additionally on the left aspect the place it dips previous the inside wall, what would I fill that space with? I’d convey the drywall straight up vertical from the wall right? Then there could be an empty house behind that which exterior air would are available in from

Comments ( 4 )

  1. Your key search terms are going to be cathedral or vaulted ceiling conversion. You would benefit tremendously from having a structural engineer looking at this, even briefly, to ensure that those rafters you cut are not providing lateral stabilization to prevent the wall from “squishing” in or out in the same direction that the roof rafters are running. From how I can see the one attached, it’s definitely possible these aren’t structural members, but I wouldn’t trust anyone on Reddit to make that assessment from a single picture.

    Was there insulation above the ceiling you removed? If so, I’d consider using insulation baffles to maintain a vented space under the roof sheathing and then install insulation in between the rafters before you drywall, and look to your local codes to see if and what kind of vapour barrier might be required or recommended.

    As for the “dip” you refer to, you can absolutely choose your own drywalling adventure and if you want to follow that jog, go for it. For simplicity I would just use appropriately sized dimensional lumber (eg 2×4 on the flat for a 1.5” dip, 2×4 on the long for a 3.5” dip, 2×6” for a 5.5” dip, etc) to create blocking such that the wood sits back from the existing wall by the amount that is the thickness of the drywall you will be installing. If the gap is not the size of a dimensional piece of lumber, you can either affix the blocking so that it isn’t touching the far wall (the back side of the gap, if I’m reading this image correctly) assuming there are things you can attach it securely to, or you can use plywood strips running up your blocking to make up the difference.

  2. Verify that those rafter tops are well anchored – if they sag or pull out, the eave wall will be pushed outwards.

    Tunnel vents up against the roof deck, high-density fiberglass batts in the open bays, with the kraft vapor barrier towards the interior. If you need additional R-value, use unfaced batts then rigid foam. Install 1X3 strapping 16″ on-center and apply the drywall to that. You’ll need to add 2X on the gables to carry the upper edge of the wall sheetrock. Insulate any/all voids before drywall (including around the tunnel vents, over the wall).

    Install soffit vents (either strips, rectangular or pop-ins). Install a [shed roof vent strip at the top](

    edit: just noticed how wide those rafter bays are. You may need to use 2X3 instead of the 1X3

  3. You need a high R value.

    You will need a hot roof.
    You can also put more insulation under the roof deck to achieve the required R value

  4. I gotta be honest the DIY commenters are making my head role.

    1. Can you see that the roof has a ridge vent?
    2. Are there screened holes or slots in the soffit outside?

    1. To block of atop the wall cut 2x solid wood blocks that go between the joists and atop the wall. IF it’s a vented roof so not out there blocks to the roof sheathing there needs to be a gap of around 2”+ for air to go into your next step…..

    2. If yes to all those then I would vent it. 2 ways to do so. a.) use a corrugated extruded foam product called propa-vent OR b.) add 2×2 strips beside roof rafters then add 2” blue board in strips on those blocks

    4. Insulate then add strapping for drywall support and done

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